The Fur and Feather Blog

FAQ: Rattlesnake Avoidance Training

What is rattlesnake avoidance training?

Around this time of year, the rattlesnake danger moves to the forefront of every Reno/Sparks dog owner’s mind, and people start asking us about my thoughts on rattlesnake avoidance training.  Our take on it is that it’s a good idea for some dogs, but you have to understand how it works, and what it does and doesn’t do, to decide if it’s right for your dog.

Rattlesnake avoidance training is done with a shock collar.  Basically, a professional teaches your dog to associate the presence of a snake with a painful shock. When done properly, the actual level of shock is set for each individual dog by the experienced trainer, since dogs will have different sensitivity levels. In order for this to be a long-lasting lesson, the shock must be at a high level – dogs do cry out, so you probably don’t want to watch. It doesn’t last long, though, and the professionals who do it in Northern Nevada seem to have extremely good timing, and get reliable results.  In general, the greatest danger in using a severe punishment to teach a dog is that they might associate the punishment with something other than what you’ve intended (such as the humans who are standing around when the shock happens). Reassuringly, I’ve never heard of a dog in Reno associating the shock in rattlesnake aversion training with anything other than the snake. We’ve never had to treat any behavioral concerns as a result of rattlesnake training specifically. (This is unlike other forms of e-collar training, or aversive training, the fallout of which we address frequently, unfortunately, especially in private training).

Occasionally we do hear of mild behavioral side effects, such as a fear of garden hoses, or the stethoscope in the vet’s office, or other snake-looking objects.

Does my dog need rattlesnake training?

So who should have this done? Here are some factors to consider: if your dog 1) lives, goes hiking, or camping, a lot in rattlesnake habitat and 2) is one of those super predatory dogs who sees something move in the bushes and immediately pounces on it (terriers, hunting dogs, mouse and lizard hunters everywhere, we’re looking at you!), you should consider rattlesnake avoidance training.

In our experience, dogs who aren’t predatory or terribly stimulated by movement will often leave snakes alone or take a wide path around them voluntarily.  I (Joanna) was once walking my three dogs when we encountered a bull snake in the road.  All three looked a little uneasy with it and gave it a wide berth on their own, and I’ve since heard stories of other dogs having the same instinctual reaction.  But, none of those dogs are the “predatory type.”

What would the trainer do?

Personally, I (Joanna) go hiking with my dogs (they’re non-predatory types who live with small animals at home), off leash, and they haven’t done rattlesnake training.  We have encountered snakes, and they generally walk right past them without engaging with them at all. The snakes either freeze, or move away from us.  My thought is, if one of my dogs were ever to be bit by snake, it would probably be because she stepped on it while running, and didn’t even know it was there.  And if she doesn’t know it’s there, how could she avoid it, even if he had learned to?

If your dog is bit by a rattlesnake, don’t panic. Not all bites actually inject venom (most don’t), and even if they were injected, the venom of our local species of rattlesnake (the Great Basin, or Western, Rattlesnake) isn’t necessarily going to be fatal to your dog. It’s most likely just going to be a very bad day. Calmly get them to the vet as quickly as possible and tell them what happened.

Ultimately, every dog is different, every lifestyle is different, and only you are in a position to make decisions about your dog’s safety and happiness. Reach out to us with any questions! While we do not offer rattlesnake avoidance training, we’re happy to answer any other questions you may have!

Spring Fling Sniff-n-Go!

Celebrate spring at Fur and Feather Works for a super fun sniff n’ go with 3 search areas! Each search can be modified to accommodate all skill, stamina, and experience levels – brand new and/or retired dogs are welcome! Dogs on primary only (food/toy) are also welcome – you’ll just run after the dogs hunting odor. You choose your level of coaching from the instructor – anywhere from heavily coached with known hide placement, to trial-style with no coaching, with unknown hides and a time limit. We’ll also have a sweet and attractive photo booth to pose your dog in front of!

We can’t wait for you to see our three, themed search areas!

Easter Bunny’s Leftovers (interior)
Easter Bunny’s Leftovers (exterior)
Baskets of Fun (buried)

The Details:

Where: Fur and Feather Works (9475 Double R Blvd. Ste 12)
When: Saturday, April 27, starting at 2:30 (exact arrival time will be assigned when you register)
Cost: $15/search area or $40 for all three!

Humans and dogs are encouraged to come in festive attire! Dogs must be familiar with searching in novel environments to participate.  All hides will be birch, unless your dog isn’t on odor yet. You’ll indicate when you sign up whether your dog will be searching for odor, or primary reward (food/toy). All are welcome!

Registration for this event is not closed.

Feel free to contact us with any questions!

New Canine Respiratory Illness – what to do, and not do

Don’t panic!

You may already be aware of the growing concern around an infectious respiratory disease in dogs. We at Fur and Feather Works want to make sure you have all the information so that you can make informed choices for your individual dogs.

Veterinarians and animal shelters in several parts of the country, including Oregon and Colorado, have reported an uptick in cases of respiratory illness in dogs. On November 17, 2023, the American Veterinary Medical Association posted an alert concerning the disease. This illness does not test positive for either kennel cough (aka Bordetella) or canine influenza (the usual suspects), but there isn’t a test yet developed for this specific illness, making it a diagnosis of exclusion, and making the data on what exactly it is, number of cases, and how far or fast it’s spreading, murky. We do know that unlike a typical kennel cough that resolves in 7-10 days, this illness results in a long-term cough and, potentially, pneumonia. It is assumed that this illness is viral, since it doesn’t seem to respond to antibiotics, but more research is needed. We don’t fully know how it is transmitted.

Here’s what you should do.

From here on out, we highly recommend that dogs (even puppies) get vaccinated for both Bordetella (kennel cough) and canine influenza as soon as possible. We didn’t used to require this vaccine for training classes, as it is considered a “lifestyle vaccine,” and the dogs are not usually in close contact for extended periods of time in class. (The exception to this is Puppy Kindergarten, however, the dogs in this class are too young to have gone to daycare/the dog park/boarding facility to have caught a virus and bring it to class). However, while Bordetella and the Flu are NOT the cause of this new respiratory illness, in the unlikely event that your pup catches two respiratory infections at once or back-to-back – say, the flu AND this new illness – it would make them significantly sicker, and put them at an increased risk of pneumonia or other complications. The best thing you can do right now is make sure your dog’s immune system is as healthy as possible, so that if they get sick, they can handle it, and they only have to fight one virus at a time.

If you have a young puppy (under 4 months old), please take these extra precautions:

  • Vaccinate them for Bordetella and canine influenza as early as possible. Ask your veterinarian about this.
  • Stay away from areas where groups of dogs gather and cleaning and disinfection might not be possible. (You should be doing this anyway with a puppy who isn’t done her vaccine series, but here’s a reminder!). These places include daycares, grooming parlors, big-box pet stores, home improvement stores, and dog parks.
  • For a list of safer locations to visit, have a look at your “Places to Go” handout from Puppy Kindergarten, or ask us!
  • Please keep any adult dogs who also live in your pup’s home away from these locations as well, until your puppy is fully vaccinated
  • Wait 2 weeks after your puppy’s final vaccine to begin visiting these places again.

Is it safe to come to dog training classes?

For most dogs, yes. As with human illnesses, the dogs at the highest risk of complications are those who are very young, very old, or with compromised immune systems. Please click here for an explanation of how we clean the training center. These policies will not be changing, except to make them more stringent, if new information recommends it. So far we have been able to avoid any kennel cough or influenza breakouts in the training center, and we intend to keep that record intact! As always, if your pup shows any signs of illness, including a cough, sneezing, runny nose and/or eyes, or lethargy, please keep them home from class, and let us know right away. Our trainers are also keeping a close eye on our canine pupils to make sure they all look healthy, alert and bright-eyed in class.

In light of these protocols and in consultation with our veterinary staff, we feel confident in the safety of your dogs (and ours, too!) in classes. If you have any questions, please feel free to hit “reply” to this email, or give us a call at (775) 420-2322. We’re happy to address any concerns you might have, and we hope you will continue to feel confident coming to classes and referring others to us!

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