The Fur and Feather Blog

Requirements for Nose Work class

Is Nose Work Right for You and Your Dog? Here’s What You Need to Know Before You Join Class.

We’re thrilled you’re considering joining us for Nose Work/Scent Work—it’s one of our absolute favorite dog sports. Whether your dog is a sniffing superstar or just starting to discover the joys of scent games, Nose Work is a fun, confidence-building activity that taps into your dog’s natural instincts. In short, it rewards your dog for … being a dog!

But before you sign up, there are a couple of important requirements we need to talk about, to make sure both you and your dog are set up for success.

🐾 One Dog at a Time, Please!

Nose Work is a solo sport—only one dog searches at a time. That means while one dog is working, the rest are chilling in their cars, awaiting their turn to shine. It’s an essential part of how the class is structured, and it keeps everyone safe, focused, and stress-free.

So here’s the biggie:

Your dog must be able to wait quietly in your car between turns.
This means:

  • No separation anxiety meltdowns

  • No frantic barking or pawing at windows

  • No singing the song of their people between every search

If your dog isn’t yet comfortable being alone in the car, that’s okay! But Nose Work class might not be the right fit yet. We’re happy to help you work on that skill separately, so you can join us down the line.

🌞 “But What About Leaving My Dog in the Car in Summer?”

We get it. There’s a lot of fear out there about leaving dogs in cars—and some of it is absolutely warranted. But in this case? You’re safe. Here’s why:

  • Our parking lot is shaded by the building in the afternoon and evening

  • We’re lucky in the desert that there is almost always a breeze in the evenings
  • You’ll be going back and forth to your car frequently during class

  • You’re more than welcome to leave your car running with the A/C on if you prefer

  • We keep class moving quickly so your dog won’t be waiting long

And just for peace of mind—our training center is located in a safe South Reno neighborhood, and we’ll never be far from your dog. Our instructors are dog lovers and Nose Work afficionados, too—we’d never ask you to do something that wasn’t safe.

🚶‍♀️ Human-Friendly and Dog-Tolerant, Too

Nose Work is a low-interaction sport, but your dog will still need to be able to:

  • Work safely and comfortably around unfamiliar humans

  • Pass by other dogs at a distance of about 15 feet without reacting

We’re not asking for picture-perfect leash manners or tail-wagging friendliness—just basic neutrality. Unlike most dog sports, in Nose Work, dogs will never come into direct contact with each other, which makes this sport open to dogs who don’t particularly like other dogs. That said, if your dog barks, lunges, or becomes stressed when seeing another dog from about 15 feet or greater, this might not be the right class just yet. (But we’ve got other options to help you get there!)


In short, here’s what your dog needs to be ready for class:
✅ Able to rest quietly in your car between turns
✅ Comfortable being alone for short periods (even in summer!)
✅ Non-reactive and relaxed around unfamiliar humans
✅ Able to pass by another dog at a distance of about 15 feet without barking and lunging

Got questions or aren’t sure if your dog is ready? Reach out—we’re always happy to help you find the right fit.

Nose Work is one of the most enriching activities you can do with your dog—and we’re excited to help you get sniffing!

How To Trim Your Dog’s Nails Without Any Drama

Trimming your dog’s nails is an important part of pet care that helps prevent discomfort and health issues. Did you know overgrown nails can lead to joint pain and infections? With the right tools and techniques, you can make this essential task drama-free for both you and your dog.

Nail Trimming Can Be Scary

Many dogs feel nervous about having their nails trimmed. Their paws are very sensitive, and even the calmest dogs can be timid about them being touched. Desensitizing your pet to having his paws touched is helpful, not just for routine nail maintenance but checking for things like foxtails, too!

Nail Trimming Tools of the Trade

There are a few different methods for trimming nails which can be used depending on your dogs’ preferences. Most commonly, a guillotine style nail clipper is used. A Dremel grinder can also be
used in combination or alone to grind the nails down. Lastly, it can be advantageous for some very nervous dogs to learn how to use a scratch board in the comfort of their own home.

If your pet is hypersensitive to their paws being touched, they may benefit from calming or sedating medications in combination with training and desensitization. Ask your veterinarian for help with this.

How to Get Started with Nail Trims

These steps are broken down based on where your dog is in the nail trimming process. If you are unsure where to start, start at step one and watch your dog’s body language to see how they feel.
 
Remember to practice on all four paws at each step, and only move on to the next step when your dog seems to be calm and happy with the step you’re on.
 
Reward your dog with a small but extra tasty treat for each repetition – this is how we change their perception from a negative to a positive one!

Step 1 – Reaching for your Dog

  • Begin by reaching toward your dog. Do not touch them at this point; simply retract your hand, then reward with a treat.
  • Reach for and touch your dog’s shoulder. With an open hand, gently pet down the leg. Remove your hand when you get near the paw and reward.
  • Repeat the above step, but this time loosely wrap your hand around your dog’s leg. Remove your hand when you get near the paw and reward.

Step 2 – Holding Your Dog’s Paws

  • Always starting at the shoulder, use one hand to pet down the leg while loosely wrapping your hand around the leg. “Scoop” the paw up but do not hold the paw yet! Simply scoop, drop/ release, then reward.
  • Next, hold the paw at the end of the scoop and let your dog remove their paw from your hand. Keep your hand open to allow them to retract the paw when they make the choice. Once they retract the paw, reward.
  • Once your dog will let you hold the paw for a few seconds on your hand, then you may gently squeeze the top of the paw before you release and reward.
  • Always starting at the shoulder, work your way down to each toe, give a gentle squeeze, release and reward.

Step 3 – Introduce the Nail-Trimming Tools

  • Whichever tool you decide to use, begin with having it on the ground and letting your dog smell/look at it. When they look at it, reward them.
  • Next, pick up the tool and reward if they look at it or move towards it. If you are using a Dremel, turn the Dremel on briefly. Make sure to immediately reward so your dog begins to learn the sound of the Dremel = treat!
  • If your dog seems calm, you can begin to reach towards your dog with the tool in your hand. Just like in the first step, pause, retract your hand, then reward.
  • Next, tap the tool to your dog’s paw, then reward. If using a Dremel, turn the Dremel on and tap with the base of the Dremel so they can feel the vibration (be careful to not tangle their hair if you have a long-haired dog).

Step 4 – Putting it All Together

  • When putting it together, return to step one (reaching for your dog) while you have the tool in your hand.
  • Finally, trim one nail per training session. Slowly add more nails per session based on your pet’s comfort, until you can complete the nail trim on all four paws. Alternatively, you can get into the habit of doing one or two nails, but more frequently – a few times per week.

A Note on Using the Dremel for Nail Trimming

A reminder when using the Dremel – nails can heat up quickly from the friction! Do not Dremel a single nail for more than 3 seconds at a time otherwise it will cause discomfort. Do a short amount on each nail and repeat as needed to get to desired length.

A Note on Using a Scratch Board for Nail Trimming

A scratch board is quite simple to build. It consists of a flat piece of wood covered with sandpaper. There are also many options online to buy.

To use the scratch board, teach your dog to shake hands/paws while the board is resting at an angle in front of them. When you drop the paw, it should drag across the board to file the nails.

Think a scratch board is the right solution for you and your dog? Check out this detailed tutorial on scratch board use.

Thank you to Jasmine Bingham for the generous use of her work!

How to Stop Your Dog’s Excessive Barking

One common complaint we receive from pet parents in Reno and Sparks is their dog or puppy barks too much. Although barking is completely normal behavior for dogs, we understand it can become excessive, and we want to help. The first questions we’d ask if you came to us with this problem is WHEN does your dog bark too much. Understanding when and WHY they’re barking is key to determining a practical solution.

My dog barks when he sees other dogs on walks.

A yellow dog barking while pulling on leash.

There are two main reasons dogs bark (and possibly lunge, whine, or growl) at other dogs they see in public. First, they LOVE other dogs and are frustrated at being kept apart. Second, they are nervous about other dogs and want the other dog to go away.

Either way, they need to learn self-regulation and coping strategies for the big FEELINGS they have about other dogs. Beware recommendations to punish this behavior by scolding or yanking your dog’s leash; this is likely to intensify your dog’s distress rather than help.

We can help you teach your dog to handle himself better in the presence of other dogs, no matter what the cause. The three alternatives to consider are:

My dog barks when she’s left alone.

Almost all puppies need to be patiently taught that it is safe to be left alone. (Just think, were they EVER alone before you brought them home? Most likely not.) Some fussing (aka barking) is to be expected during this process, but if your approach is working for your pup, that barking will lessen quickly. 

Make sure your pup has been exercised and is ready to take a nap before putting her in her kennel. Leave chews and toys with which to entertain herself while you’re gone. Start with very short absences and build on success. Don’t let your puppy out of their crate when they’re fussing.

If these guidelines aren’t working and your dog’s barking is intensifying over time, it’s time to consider a specialized approach for separation anxiety. If your dog’s barking is accompanied by signs of panic – such as biting or chewing frantically at the crate, gate, or door or peeing or pooping even if you’re only gone for a short time – it is DEFINITELY time for a separation anxiety specialist.

My dog barks when people come to my door.

Please do recognize that it is very normal for dogs to alert bark when a person approaches your home, even if that person is a friend. However, this does not mean that chaos needs to break loose anytime you have a guest or an Amazon delivery.

Try scattering a handful of kibble on the ground when your dog notices someone approaching the door, or handing out chews. Teaching your dog that a person approaching predicts a calm activity like eating or chewing can go a LONG way. It will be most effective when your dog doesn’t already have an extensive history of losing their cool when guests arrive.

If your dog already has that extensive history, you’ll need a more structured plan to reverse the chaos. This can involve teaching your dog an alternative behavior like going to a crate or station, or thoughtful management like utilizing baby gates to keep your dogs away from the door when you’re expecting visitors. Most likely, you’ll need a strategic combination of both.

My dog barks when he wants something from me.

Barking to get attention or access to a desired resource, like food or a toy, is often referred to as “demand barking.” If you would prefer that your dog not communicate with you in this way, it’s important to show them that barking does not work to get what they want. Dogs repeat things that work for them!

If you have a vocal puppy or young dog, be careful to not allow this to become a habit. Ignore them when they bark, and offer attention or resources when they are quiet. Remember that this applies to ALL resources — your attention, food, toys, chews, getting to go outside, etc.

Teach your dog to ask for what they want by offering calm behaviors like sitting, lying down, or eye contact with you. Introduce them to this idea with treats and then gradually show them it works for everything in life.

  • Our Control Yourself! Workshop is the place to teach your dog to ask for things with calm behavior. Look for an upcoming date on our Events page.
  • Basic Manners class is the perfect place for those looking to prevent or address problems like this before they become ingrained habits.
We get it, a barking dog can be a big problem!

If you’re ready to get to the root of your dog’s barking and start living a quieter, more peaceful life together, contact us for more guidance on which of our offerings would be best for your situation.

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Requirements for Nose Work class

Is Nose Work Right for You and Your Dog? Here’s What You Need to Know Before You Join Class. We’re thrilled you’re considering joining us