The Fur and Feather Blog

“Say Please” Training for Impulse Control and Manners

What is Say Please training?

Say Please is a dog training program that uses the everyday things that your dog likes or wants, to reinforce a behavior such as “sit.”  Whenever you’re about to deliver something your dog wants (opening crate door, going outside, coming inside, dinner, throw a toy, getting in the car, getting out of the car, leash on, leash off, pets, etc.), ask him for a “sit” first. Pretty soon your dog will be offering “sits” to ask for what he wants.

Why use it?

Because it’s easy, as long as you’re smarter than your dog (most of the time is OK), because it requires no training equipment, and because it reinforces the behavior you want throughout the day (instead of only when you’re “training” or have treats in your pocket – and your dog knows it!) This is also an excellent program for pups who tend to be overexcited or impulsive, because it offers an opportunity to practice self control many times throughout the day, for short periods of time.

Use it if you have a shy, anxious, or under-confident dog.

We all find our little rituals comforting; your pet is no exception.  Anxious dogs feel safer when they can predict “what comes next,” and Say Please is an easy thing for your dog to always expect and rely on.  It’s a little routine for you to practice (A follows B which follows C). Over time, it also teaches him a way of asking for what he wants (by sitting), thus empowering him to control his environment, which releases stress and frustration (“please may I have a scratch?  Could I come up on the couch with you?” etc.).

Use it if you have a pushy, possessive, or impulsive dog.

You may not realize it, but YOU hold the key to everything your dog wants. Until dogs gain the ability to open cans, scoop kibble, clip leashes on and off of themselves, drive the car, scratch their own bellies, work doorknobs, and throw their own toys, they are going to need a human to help them.  That’s where Say Please comes in.  Practicing “Say Please” gently and effectively helps your dog look to you for instruction, because he must abide by your rules to get what he wants.  Ask your dog to “sit” before you give him what he wants.  Once you’ve given the cue, don’t give your dog what he wants until he sits (even for just a second counts, though, in the beginning). If he is unable to perform the sit, don’t give in. Just walk away for 2 minutes, then come back and give him another chance to get it right. Be patient, and be as consistent as possible.

Use it if you have a bored or underemployed dog.

Have a herding dog but no stock? A gun dog but don’t hunt?  A terrier, but no vermin to chase? Here you go – an easy, convenient way to work off a little extra mental energy and keep your dog “thinking” throughout the day.

If you don’t feel like carrying the proverbial carrot or stick all the time.

Regardless of your chosen training method, animal training is all about leverage. If you want to get an animal to do something it wasn’t doing naturally, you’re going to need some leverage over them. If you don’t want to carry your treats or toy (or your punisher if you use that – your choke chain, stern voice, correction) or whatever around to get your dog to obey, you can use the environment of “real life” to reinforce what you want your dog to do.  Imagine it goes something like this in your dog’s brain: “well … the human has asked me to do something, and usually when she tells me to do something, something REALLY COOL follows, so I’d better do it to see what I get this time!” You are reinforcing good behavior with real-life rewards, meaning that 1) your dog is always ready and willing to listen when you say something and 2) the treat or (imminent punishment) doesn’t need to be present for your dog to obey.

Oh, and once your dog is good at practicing “sit” to get what he wants, start adding in other behaviors, such as “down,” “stay,” “come,” “shake” etc. to keep things fresh!

Try it! It’ll probably take a week or so to get into the swing of things, but once you do it you’ll like it, and so will your dog! Do you need a little help getting started? The Say Please program is one of the cornerstones of our manners training. Contact us for more info!

7 Rules for the Vet’s Office

I know, none of us like going to the vet’s office with a sick pet.  But here are some simple rules to follow that will make your trip to the vet’s office more pleasant for you, your dog, and the office staff – and that’s a win-win-win!

Practice handling your dog at home.

The less stressed your dog is for an exam, the better for everyone involved.  So: if you have a small dog, put them on your washer or dryer occasionally and practice touching them all over – and give them treats while you do it.  This will help them feel more comfortable with the slippery metal surface of the exam table, and learn that it’s okay to be handled – indeed, you get treats if you put up with the human harassing you!  If your dog seems stressed, then slow down, use more treats, and do shorter practice sessions. If you have a large dog, do the same thing, minus the table.

Bring your dog’s FAVORITE treat or toy with you.

This way you can reward good behavior.  And be generous!  This has a bonus effect of counter conditioning too: the vet can’t be that bad if you get treats or your favorite ball during the visit!  The exception to this rule is if your dog is supposed to be fasting before their visit; sometimes before surgery or certain tests your dog needs to have an empty stomach, but your vet will let you know.

PUT YOUR DOG ON A LEASH.

This is a safety rule as well as for the peace of mind of those around you.  Your dog may be brilliant off leash, but how is everyone else in the waiting room supposed to know that?  If there is someone in the waiting room with a dog-aggressive dog who is on a leash, when they see you walk in with an off-leash dog, they have a mild panic attack.  Have the courtesy to follow the rules; the vet’s office is neither the time nor the place to show off your off-leash skills.

Poke your head in and make sure the coast is clear before entering….

…and go through the door before your dog.  This is not about training, but safety – you don’t know what kind of vicious parrot or pot bellied pig is behind that door! This is a great spot to use the “wait” you learned in class.

Don’t let your dog “say hello” to the other dogs.

You don’t know if they’re friendly, and keep in mind that dogs are far less tolerant when they’re in a stressful situation.  All dogs need personal space, just like humans, and they may need much more space than usual if they are sick or in pain.  Also keep in mind that some pets may be contagious.

Be honest with your vet.

Even if what your dog is doing is embarrassing or scary – I promise you, they’ve heard worse.  Behavior problems may be linked to medical problems, so if your dog is likely to bite, say so.  If the dog has been growling at other dogs or people lately, say so.  If he doesn’t like his feet touched, say so.  It’s only fair for your vet to have the whole story.  If your vet doesn’t accept this information in an understanding manner and take steps to mitigate the difficulty, find a different vet.  They should be understanding of dogs’ behavioral differences, not shaming. And if you have these issues, contact us so we can do some private training to get rid of them!

Ask questions.  Ask “why.”  Ask until you understand.

YOU are your pet’s voice, and the only one responsible for their health and happiness.  No reputable vet will have a problem with answering your questions, if you phrase them nicely (although you might run out of time in the appointment!) If you understand what’s going on with your dog, you can better advocate for his or her health.  If your vet won’t answer your questions or acts offended when you show an interest in your pet’s health, find a different vet.

If you’re having trouble with your dog’s behavior at the vet’s office, contact us so we can help you!

10 Tips to Teach a Loose Leash Walk

10 Tips to Help your Dog Walk on a Loose Leash

1. Match your reinforcer with the distraction level of the environment.  Your dog gets to decide what’s reinforcing and what’s not, remember?  And kibble or praise isn’t going to work to reinforce your dog’s good behavior in the big wide world! Break out the “big guns:” cheese, chicken, beef, freeze dried liver, the tennis ball – whatever your dog likes best.

2. Keep your reward in the same side hand as your dog is on.  For example, if you prefer your dog walk on the right, keep your treats in your right hand.  The leash will be in the other hand, crossing over your body.  It feels funny at first, but stick with it – this will keep your dog from stepping on your feet when it’s time to reward, and keep him from crossing in front of you when you’re trying to walk.

3. Reinforce eye contact.  A dog who makes eye contact occasionally is by default going to pay better attention to you.  If your dog checks in automatically, reward.  If he doesn’t…

4. Talk to your dog.  As soon as you step out the door, you are immediately the most boring thing in the environment to your dog – they see you all the time!  If you chatter to them, touch them, smile and play with them on your walk, you’ll be more interesting … and then you can do step 3.

5. Don’t use a retractable (or Flexi) leash.  Your dog can feel the tension on the leash that the retracting mechanism creates, and as soon as he leans into that tension … well, what do you know, he gets to go where he wants!  This becomes a ingrained habit very quickly. If your dog is ALREADY trained to walk nicely on leash, then you can go ahead and use your retractable sometimes, but only once leash manners are very solid.

6. Practice off-leash.  In your house or yard.  Seriously – you will get a pretty good picture of just how much you use that leash to control your dog – by definition making it tight. If there’s no leash, you get REALLY good at controlling your dog with other tools.

7. Use some equipment.  We recommend the Gentle Leader, Halti, Easy Walk Harness, and Freedom Harness. These are fantastic tools that do not cause your dog any pain or choke them. Head halters like the Halti and Gentle Leader take some time to teach your dog to wear at first – here are instructions on how to do that.

8. Do not let your dog get to what he wants without working for it first.  It takes about 5 seconds to ask your dog to “sit,” and then release them to pee on their favorite post or greet the neighbor’s dog.  This Say Please training is very powerful.  If you let your dog pull you over there, that’s what you’re reinforcing. If you have your dog “sit” then walk nicely on the way over there, that’s what you’re reinforcing.

9. Teach a leave-it.  A really good one.  We don’t mean you yell “leave it” and then haul your dog along; we mean a “leave it” that teaches your dog to look away from what they were looking at, on leash or off.  This is not that hard and can make your walks so much more pleasant.

10. Consistency.  Get everyone who interacts with your dog on the same page.  Be explicit with your family and dog walker on what you want them to do.  Dogs love to gamble and they LOVE the game of “maybe today’s the day I can pull on my leash!!”

Tried it and it’s not working? Well, this is an article on the internet, not a dog training lesson!  Contact us and let us know where you’re getting stuck – we can help you!

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