The Fur and Feather Blog

Top 5 Preventable Dog Behavior Problems

This Training Tidbit is used with permission from our colleague, Carla Brown, of The Savvy Dog in Truckee, CA.  Thanks, Carla!

Owners whose dogs have “behavior problems” keep trainers (and shelters) busy. Many of the problems are a result of people not understanding how dogs think, learn and communicate. Some of the more challenging behavior problems stem from root causes which could be avoided or minimized if humans knew more about the canine species.

Here is my countdown of the top-five causes of avoidable behavior problems in dogs:

#5: Diet
There are SO many dog foods on the market, how can you possible know what to choose? High protein, low carb, hypo-allergenic, raw….the list could fill this entire article! The Whole Dog Journal publishes a well researched list of recommended dry and wet foods each year. That’s one good place to start, but each dog has unique needs and may be allergic or intolerant to some foods. Intolerances and allergies can cause severe distress and pain which can effect a dog’s behavior. Also, diets which contain too much or too little of any nutritional component can cause imbalances that will manifest in behavior changes. Your veterinarian is the best resource for diet related questions.

#4: Puppies need to learn how to speak dog
If puppies don’t spend time with other dogs, they never learn how to speak dog. Dogs speak with their bodies. Yes, they bark, but most of the information they transmit to other dogs is non-verbal. How they hold their head, ears, tail and body speak volumes, but only if the dog knows the language. Puppies who are isolated from other pups or well behaved adult dogs often grow up fearful of other dogs and send conflicting messages. The best solution to this problem is to take young pups to puppy socialization and manners classes where well managed play with other pups is encouraged.

#3: Boredom
Dogs need mental stimulation and physical exercise to be happy and healthy. If they get too little of either, they will find ways to entertain themselves. Chewing up your favorite  shoes or the sofa is often a sign of anxiety but can also just be entertainment. There are many ways to provide mental stimulation. Feeding some of your dog’s daily kibble out of a Kong or puzzle feeder makes him work for his food. Positive based training is a great way to give your dog’s brain a work-out and it helps build your relationship.

#2: Pain
Dogs (and cats) are very good at hiding pain. In the wild, an animal that shows weakness is likely to be hunted and killed. Sudden changes in a dog’s behavior can indicate pain or discomfort. Just like us, being in pain can cause a dog to be short-tempered or grumpy. Don’t ever discount sudden changes in your dog’s behavior or routine. Consult your veterinarian immediately.

And the drumroll please……

#1: Never being taught to be alone
Dogs are pack animals and they depend on the pack for survival. We are our dog’s pack. When we are away, they instinctually think something is wrong. For them to be happy and confident in a human world, it is our responsibility to teach them that being alone is okay and you will come back. If you are raising a young pup, crating him and leaving for varying amounts of time will do the trick. Older pups and adult dogs can be more of a challenge because they often come with unknown backgrounds from shelters. Many of these dogs have some form of separation anxiety, but most calm down after a few weeks in a new home when the owner offers a structured and predictable routine. There are homeopathic remedies that can be helpful with more severe cases.

Simply being observant and noting small changes in your dog’s behavior will help you identify problems which can be addressed before they can become major issues. Trust your instincts and your dog will thank you!

Contact us if you need help with any of these issues!

4 Tips for Making “Friends” with a Scared Dog

“How come he likes you? He never likes anyone! You must be magic.”

We get this all the time.  People are always amazed when normally fearful or aggressive animals like us.  It’s a handy skill, considering that we work with animals with behavior problems for a living.  And because we like you, we’re going to share the secret.  Ready?

It’s magic.

Kidding!

It’s really just a combination of respect and knowledge, and you can learn it too.

The problem with human greetings

When we humans want to be friendly – to express our lack of threat – we make direct eye contact, smile, extend our hand, and move toward the recipient of our affections.  In the animal kingdom, this never happens!  Almost no social animal of any species uses eye contact, display of teeth, and invasion of space as a friendly greeting.  If we take domestic dogs as an example, if a dog stares directly at another dog and walks toward him, it means one of two things: 1) an invitation to play, which will be designated by other social signals such as a play bow or wiggling, or 2) a threat, or a challenge.  Next time you see dogs who don’t know each other well hanging out together, watch them.  How often to they actually look into each other’s eyes?  The longer you watch, the more you’ll realize that it almost never happens.

What this means is that the very things we humans do to indicate our good intentions are the very things that dogs find threatening.  What we have here is a failure to communicate.

Dogs use certain body language to put others at ease.

Now, when a dog wants to put another dog at ease, there is a pretty fixed set of behaviors that they will offer.  Among the most common are:

  • looking away
  • turning their head
  • walking away
  • sitting or lying down
  • sniffing the ground
  • urinating on something
  • blinking slowly
  • yawning

These signals are commonly called “calming signals” and are better explored in Turid Rugaas’ excellent book, Calming Signals: On Talking Terms with Dogs.

In other words, when a dog wants to put another dog at ease, they basically do the exact opposite of us: they make a big show of ignoring the other dog!

The best way to “make friends” with a scared or aggressive dog…

…is to “speak” the language they understand.

  1. Remember that dogs have personal space needs, just like people.  Keep your distance.
  2. Move slowly, smoothly and predictably. For example, if you need to get up from sitting, lean forward first, brace yourself, THEN stand, so the dog can anticipate what is about to happen before it does. No surprises.
  3. Remember to relax your muscles and breathe. You can even yawn or assume some bad posture (lean against a wall, slouch) to appear even more relaxed.
  4. Don’t talk to, touch, or look at the dog.  In fact, make a big show of doing whatever it is that you’re doing, as long as it relatively stationary, like reading, writing, or watching TV. (You can sniff the ground if you want, but that might make any humans present uncomfortable, which leaves you with a whole new problem.)
  5. And lastly, remember that dogs are experts at asking for what they want.  If a dog wants to be petted, you’ll know it, because they’ll ask! If they haven’t asked, assume they don’t want to be petted at the moment.  Above all (and this is for the men out there especially), don’t allow your ego to be tied up in whether the dog “likes” you or not.  Don’t be pushy.

It’s a strange phenomenon that when someone pets a human against their will, it’s considered a violation.  When someone pets an animal against his or her will, the animal is expected to put up with it quietly, and if he doesn’t, it’s considered a “behavior problem.”  Just food for thought.

Do you have a shy or reactive dog who finds meeting new people difficult? We can help with that. Contact us for some private training!

Home Alone: Boredom Busters for dogs

Is your dog bored while you’re at work?

Boredom is probably the most common cause of behavior problems in the house, and can lead to more severe problems like anxiety.  Dogs are notorious for getting into all sorts of mischief as soon as their human family has left for the day.  And can you blame them?  Would you enjoy hanging around the house all day, every day, with nothing to do? (TV doesn’t count; you need opposable thumbs to work the remote!)

Feeling guilty for leaving your best friend alone?  Worried that your home will look like a hurricane hit when you get home?

Here are some ideas to try!

  • For some dogs, a food bowl in the morning is waaay too easy!  We work for our meals; why shouldn’t the dog?  There are a variety of food dispensing toys out on the market.  The KONG Wobbler, Kibble Nibble, and Tug-A-Jug are a few of our favorite good-quality products.  They hold your dog’s kibble meal and dispense it slowly as your dog manipulates the toy.  If your dog is not particularly motivated to work for his own kibble, buy some small sample-sized packages of a different brand of kibble and feed that instead, or mix it with your dog’s original food – the novel smell will suddenly make his or her meal much more worth the work!
  • Hire a dog walker.  If you don’t want to pay a professional, there are quite a few responsible 13 year olds out there who would be willing to work for less.  Ask for babysitter referrals in your neighborhood – if they’re willing to watch a 5 year old human for $20 an hour, often they’re willing to take your dog for a walk, or play fetch in the backyard, for a similar price.
  • Consider doggy daycare.  While it may not be an option for every dog, it can sure take a weight off of your shoulders if it works out.  Make sure to interview the staff and employees before attending. You want to choose a daycare that understands dog body language, is selective in who they admit (and not afraid to expel dogs who aren’t a good fit), and it’s not a free-for-all: the play is moderated and controlled by a human at all times.
  • Rotate your dog’s toys.  A couple times per week, pick up some of your dog’s toys and put others down.  Repeat.  Old toys are boring. New toys are cool!  Now there are new toys all the time!  Bonus points if you trade toys with another dog owner!
  • Exercise your dog before leaving him for the day.  It releases endorphins and burns off excess energy.  Chances are you need it, too.  It’ll be easier for your dog to settle in to his KONG or chew toys (instead of your couch) if he’s not vibrating with pent up energy.

And lastly, use the original king of all “doggy babysitters”: The KONG toy.

How to stuff a KONG toy:

Easy: Put a milkbone, piece of freeze-dried treat, or similar hard cookie in the KONG.  Make sure it goes in easily.  Allow your dog to knock it out and eat it.  Many dogs need to get some easy success at the KONG so that they understand the point of playing with it, and this is a good way to start.
Medium: layer the inside of the KONG with peanut butter, canned dog food, plain yogurt, or similar soft, sticky medium.  Jam various treats, cookies, kibble etc. in there tightly, layering with your sticky medium as needed.
Hard: See above, except squeeze the sides of the KONG so that the opening becomes wider in one direction.  Work some treats in through the hole that don’t fit through the hole unless the KONG is squeezed (dried chicken strips or heart-shaped dog cookies are great for this).  They won’t fall back out until your dog has either softened them up, or crushed them inside the KONG.
Time-delayed, for the dog with a KONG-PhD: Turn the KONG turn it upside down in a cup.  Fill with canned dog food, plain yogurt, banana, soaked kibble, or other smooshy, healthy medium. Freeze upside down in the cup.   Remove it from the cup and deliver it to the especially KONG-savvy dog for a satisfying challenge.

Need some help curbing destructive behaviors when your dog is home alone? You’re not alone! Contact us so we can help you with that!

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