Category — Uncategorized

If a dog is is wagging his tail, it means he’s happy, right?  It’s conventional wisdom. If a dog wags his tail at you, he wants to be petted. If another dog is wagging his tail at your dog, he’s friendly.

Right?

Brace yourself: I’m going to burst that bubble. (Sorry – it’s for your own good.)  This is a myth, and a dangerous one at that.   A wagging tail can actually indicate a variety of emotions in a dog – and can even be a warning – and if I may speculate, I bet that a large percentage of dog bites happen while a dog is wagging his tail.

When a dog wags his tail, it signals a willingness to interact with what he’s looking at.  That’s all.   Does he want to be petted? Play with another dog? Chase you off his property?  Defend his bone?  Whomp on another dog in the park because it’s fun?  Once an interaction is invited, how that interaction will go, or what the dog’s intent is, must be read from the rest of his body and his face.

Here are some examples of dogs who are actually friendly, or soliciting a pleasant social interaction:

This is Irma. Note her soft, slightly squinted eyes and relaxed mouth. Her tongue is out only a little, and it’s relaxed, too (not curled up at the end, or hiding behind her bottom teeth). Under her fur, her ears are in a middle-position (not pressed back on her head, nor alerting forward), her facial muscles are relaxed and she almost appears to be smiling.  If after presenting her your hand to smell (an invitation on the human side to interact), if her face still looks like this, yes, you may pet her!

This is Rafter (mauling me in puppy class). Note that his tail is blurred – he is wagging it. Also note that his tail is in a middle-position – neither high over his back nor low toward the ground. His eyes, too, are soft and squinty, and note how far back his ears are (this is a signal of deference and affection, as is the lick-under-the-chin). He is relaxed, happy, and offering affection. Dogs will do this licking to other dogs, too – although depending on the comfort level of the recipient, sometimes they find it annoying.

Now, compare Irma and Rafter’s body language to these dogs’ (none of these are my pictures; I found them online):

This dog is not interested in a petting right now. Note that his weight is shifted forward onto his front legs, and they are slightly bent like he is ready to move. His ears are far forward – he’s on alert.  His eyes are NOT relaxed and squinty; rather they are hard, fixed on what he’s looking at, and his facial muscles are tense (see that little horizontal line below his eye where the muscles meet?) His mouth is closed and his lips are tight. And of course, the tail – it’s probably wagging. But in this instance, he’s still deciding whether whatever he’s looking at is a threat or not. The tail is held very high over the back, indicating a high level of arousal and possibly a “hair trigger.” If you petted a dog who looks like this, you would be risking a bite.

This dog has a closed, tight mouth as well. Again you can see the horizontal ridge below his eye where the muscles are tense. Notice how far back his ears are – they say, “I’m not sure I’m okay with this.” Also notice his eye – that sliver of white is called “whale eye” or “half moon eye” and what it means is, “this makes me a little uncomfortable!”  If a dog were looking at you like this and you went to pet him, you would be risking a bite.

Another example of dogs on alert. You can tell that their tails are wagging, but look at how stiff they are, just like the rest of their muscles. Both dogs’ weight is shifted forward, and both dogs’ ears are pricked forward. They are on alert. Their eyes are squinty but it’s most likely because of the light, because the rest of their faces are very tight, mouth clamped shut, wrinkles on the forehead. The dog on the left is air-scenting to gather more information about whatever is approaching. These dogs are guarding something and if you were to pet them right now, you would be risking a bite.
All of this said, if you have a child – or an adult – who needs to be educated about which dogs are friendly and which are not, break the cycle of bad information!  There are several fabulous educational programs available to teach children (and adults) to be safe around dogs.  Here are a few:

http://www.doggonesafe.com/

http://www.vet.utk.edu/dogbiteprevention/

http://www.livingwithkidsanddogs.com/

Have an idea for a training Tidbit? Let me know! I’d love to hear from you!

JESUS CHRIST IN RICHMOND PARK

Don’t be a Fenton.   Talk to me about a Control Off-Leash class.

I have a DINOS.  I work with DINOS constantly.  My heart aches for them and their owners.  Its up to those of us with DINOS, and those of us who sympathize with them, to take a stand and pass the message along.  It’s the least we can do.

 DINOS. Click here.

One of my favorite DINOS sleeps after class.

It happens to all of us: as we age, our brains move a little slower, we take a little longer to solve problems, and it takes a little more effort to absorb new information.  It’s not that intelligence or problem solving capacity has decreased at all, it’s just that things are a little slower.  It’s a pretty clear pattern across all animal species.

But, did you know that studies indicate that dogs can suffer from cognitive dysfunction or dementia similar to that found in humans?  Sometimes it’s not just “normal aging” – sometimes it’s a treatable medical problem.  More severe than the normal slowing down of mental function, it’s called Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome and has similar (but not identical) pathology to human dementia.  It is not at all similar in pathology to human Alzheimer’s disease, although it is often mistakenly called “Doggy Alzheimer’s.”

And just between you and me, I’d wager a bet that it’s only a matter of time before other animals are found to suffer from dementia, as well.  Dogs just tend to be the most convenient test subjects because their lives are so closely tied with humans.

Cognitive function is defined as mental processes such as perception, learning, memory, awareness and decision making. A breakdown of these functions in a dog causes bizarre changes in your dog’s normal behavioral patterns, such as house soiling or getting lost in a once-familiar room.

Wondering if your dog is a possible victim of CDS?  Here is the basic “checklist,” although your veterinarian will be able to do a more thorough history and diagnosis.  You want to watch  for:

•     Orientation: meaning your dog may get lost in a small or familiar area.  He may suddenly begin going to the back door to potty, when for his entire life he’s gone to the front.  Some dogs appear confused, and may not be able to find their food and water dishes, or unable to find their way out from under a chair.

•     Social Interaction: Normally independent dogs may become strangely clingy.  “Velcro” dogs may become distinctly aloof.  Or even stranger, a normally affectionate dog will walk away in the middle of a petting, for no reason.
•     House training: dogs who have had perfect house training their entire lives may begin having “accidents.”  These are truly accidents; they are not in any way an attempt by your dog to transmit any sort of communication.  Rather they likely reflect a breakdown of memory and learning.
•     Sleep: circadian rhythms can be disrupted, resulting in a dog who appears to sleep more than is normal, or who becomes an insomniac.

Unfortunately, CDS is as difficult to treat in dogs as it is in humans.  Your veterinarian can prescribe a medication which is will help through its immune-system boosting and anti- neurodegenerative effects (meaning, it slows the breakdown of the connections in the brain and helps to grow new ones).  There is some evidence that diet rich in antioxidants can have a positive effect, as well.   And of course, behavioral and psychological support goes a long way, too.  The brain is incredibly malleable.  Help your dog to do the canine version of a crossword puzzle every day to keep his mind sharp!

Have an idea for a training Tidbit? Let me know! I’d love to hear from you!

Click here to read her blog entry.

Puppy Kindergarten class is for making new friends!

How to teach your pet to play Hide and Seek

Intelligent animals love games.  They also enjoy solving puzzles. Anyone who’s ever watched their dog work out how to open the cookie cupboard or their cockatoo how to open their cage door can attest to this.  I don’t think I’ve ever met a dog who didn’t enjoy playing Hide-and-Seek.  And as a bonus: I don’t think I’ve ever met a child (or child at heart) who didn’t love playing Hide-and-Seek with their dog.

This game can be modified slightly to be played with any animal who has learned to come when you call him (cats, bunnies, parrots).  You’ll just have to call the animal instead of relying on the animal to find you voluntarily.  But hey, then you’re practicing recalls, so that’s even better!

• Begin in your home, with two people and your dog (or dogs!) on a leash.  One person has a few yummy treats.  This person will be the “hider” first.  The other has the dog on the leash and no treats.
• The Hider steps away a few feet.  Stay close, and within plain sight.  We’ll start really, really, ridiculously easy at first.
  The person with the dog says, “where’s [insert name here]?” in an excited voice.  And waits.  And waits.
• Eventually the dog will get bored and go to the Hider to see if he’s any more interesesting.  “Hooray!” you both cheer, and the Hider feeds your dog several little pieces of treat in a row! Your dog thinks, “wow, that was cool!”
• Restart the game.  The Hider “hides” again, still VERY EASY and in plain sight, but perhaps he could step behind the sofa, or a few more feet away this round.
• Person with the leash: “where’s [name]??”  Dog will hesitate a bit, and again seek out the Hider to see if he can milk some treats.  “Hooray, you’re such a smart dog!!!” and several small pieces of treat from the Hider.
• Repeat, with GRADUALLY increasingly difficult hiding spots.  Don’t push it too fast, or your dog will feel he can’t “win” and give up.  At the same time, resist the urge to help your dog – let him figure it out!  He can do it, if you increase your difficulty slowly.  If you must help, have the Hider make a small noise, like a cough, to grab the dogs’ attention.
• Switch hiders.  Now that your dog understands the game, he can be taught to seek out other people, too.
• Take the game outside, to a fenced area, and repeat from the bottom (start easy, work to more difficult hides)
• Have fun, and be safe!

Hints: if you train with more than one dog, chances are one will do the actual seeking, and the rest will just follow for their treat.  That’s fine, but if it bugs you, you’ll have to teach each dog to play the game independently, then put them together.
Many times you can fade out the treat after a while – some dogs will play this game for the simple joy of it.  But if they lose enthusiasm, go back to rewarding with a treat or a toy.  You’re playing to have fun, remember?
Children love this game, but make sure your dog is comfortable with kids before you let them handle him or her.

Are they harmless, or do they create early biases?

“Law school grad and second-year vet student at Colorado State University Michelle Dally decided it was high time someone stepped up and dissected the role of vet industry-sponsored freebies in an ivory tower setting. Like so many veterinary students before her, she questioned the ethics of free pizza, flea products and pet food in vet school.  [...]  when students first arrive, they find their desks piled high with a variety of freebies – pens, notepads, backpacks, notebooks, highlighters, academic calendars, pet treats, pet food bowls, reference books, and more – all emblazoned with pet food, pharmaceutical, and other corporate brand names from across the veterinary industry. And that is only the beginning.

“… studies and surveys have shown that the impulses generated by gift-giving are neither rational nor totally conscious. As suggested by *Brennan et al., “Individuals receiving gifts are often unable to remain objective; they reweigh information and choices in light of the gift. So too, those people who give or accept gifts with no explicit ‘strings attached’ still carry an expectation of some kind of reciprocity.”

Click here to read the full article, and see how UC Davis is doing things differently.

It’s crossed all of our minds.  What if you could replicate that absolutely perfect pet you had as a kid?  That animal who still lives in your heart, many years later; the one to whom you unwittingly compare every subsequent pet.  For a little while, it looked like science was coming close.  But now…

“Nearly a decade ago, scientists at Texas A&M University announced the birth of CC, the world’s first cloned cat. CC, as in Copy Cat, has the same DNA blueprint as her genetic mother, Rainbow. So, like identical twins they share the same genetic code. That means everything’s the same-their looks, their mannerisms, their…. But wait.”

CC and Rainbow have completely different personalities, and they don’t even look alike!  Huh?

Click here to read the full article from Dr. Sophia Yin’s excellent behavior blog.

Seagull Steals Video Camera

Real? Fake? You tell me. I especially like the beginning with the man saying, “Hey…  Hey!!”  Ha ha ha!

Seagull steals video camera

Home Alone

Boredom is possibly the number one cause of behavior problems in the house.  Dogs are notorious for getting into all sorts of mischief as soon as their human family has left for the day.  And can you blame them?  Would you enjoy hanging around the house all day, every day, with nothing to do? (TV doesn’t count; you need opposable thumbs to work the remote!)

• For some dogs, a food bowl in the morning is waaay too easy!  We work for our meals; why shouldn’t the dog?  There are a variety of food dispensing toys out on the market.  “Buster Cube,” “Kibble Nibble,” and “Tug-A-Jug” are a few of my favorite good-quality products.  They hold your dog’s kibble meal and dispense it slowly as your dog manipulates the toy.  If your dog is like mine and he’s not particularly motivated to work for his own kibble, buy some small sample-sized packages of a different brand of kibble and feed that instead, or mix it with your dog’s original food – the novel smell will suddenly make his or her meal much more worth the work!
• Hire a dog walker.  If you don’t want to pay a professional, there are quite a few responsible 13 year olds out there who would be willing to work for less.  Ask for babysitter referrals in your neighborhood – if they’re willing to watch a 5 year old human for $10 an hour, often they’re willing to take your dog for a walk, or play fetch in the backyard, for a similar price.
• Rotate your dog’s toys.  A couple times per week, pick up some of your dog’s toys and put others down.  Repeat.  Old toys are boring. New toys are cool!  Now there are new toys all the time!  Bonus points if you trade toys with another dog owner!
• Exercise your dog before leaving him for the day.  It releases endorphins and burns off excess energy.  Chances are you need it, too.  It’ll be easier for your dog to settle in to his KONG or chew toys (instead of your couch) if he’s not vibrating with pent up energy.
• Use a KONG toy (the original dog babysitter!)

How to stuff a KONG toy:

Easy: Put a milkbone, piece of freeze-dried meat, or similar hard cookie in the KONG.  Baby carrots and other veggies work well too. Make sure it goes in easily.  Allow your dog to knock it out and eat it.  Many dogs need to get some easy success at the KONG so that they understand the point of playing with it, and this is a good way to start.

Medium: layer the inside of the KONG with peanut butter, canned dog food, plain yogurt, or similar soft, sticky medium.  Jam various treats, cookies, kibble etc. in there tightly, layering with your sticky medium as needed.

Hard: See above, except squeeze the sides of the KONG so that the opening becomes wider in one direction.  Work some treats in through the hole that don’t fit through the hole unless the KONG is squeezed (dried chicken strips or heart-shaped dog cookies are great for this).  They won’t fall back out until your dog has either softened them up, or crushed them inside the KONG.

Time-delayed, for the dog with a KONG-PhD: Plug the KONG’s small hole with peanut butter or a green pea, then turn it upside down in a cup.  Fill with canned dog food (the canned food will be “pourable” if you mix it with a bit of water. Otherwise just jam it in there with a fork.)  Freeze.   Deliver to the especially KONG-savvy dog for a satisfying challenge.

Finally, consider hiding several KONGs around your house or yard to keep your dog busy for hours.  Keep an eye on the rough amount of calories you feed your dog while you’re away, and remove them from his dinner, so he doesn’t get fat.  Try to use healthy treats, too.

Have an idea for a Training Tidbit?  Let me know! I’d love to hear from you!