Beating the Heat … the Sequel

        This topic comes up all the time, so it’s worth readdressing. The heat is no excuse for not working with your dog, or taking them to do things … but it is a reason to think carefully and plan ahead!  Most healthy dogs acclimate to hot temperatures with no problem, just like humans.  And just like humans, if they spend all day every day in an air-conditioned house or office, they will not acclimate to the heat, and it would be unfair to expect athletic or challenging feats from them.

When considering whether to bring your dog, and what preparations to take, consider these factors:

  • In the beginning of summer, your dog will be less heat tolerant.  By the end of summer, most dogs have acclimated well if you keep working with them.
  • Consider your dog’s breed, physical health, age, structure, and coat. All of these can have an influence on how they handle heat. Generally speaking, smooshy-faced dogs don’t handle the heat as well as dogs with long noses.
  • If you have a long or thick-haired dog, keep them well groomed and their undercoat brushed out.  Try a Furminator or other de-shedding tool; they really work!

 

  • Be aware of how hot the pavement is; if you can’t hold your hand on the asphalt for a count of 10, it’s too hot for your dog to walk on.

Have a game plan:

http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=173&ParentCat=316&string=fan

 

http://www.batterysavers.com/large-rechargeable-fans.htm

 

http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/power_tools/lifestyle/P3310 

Don’t forget additional batteries!

http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2909&ParentCat=449 

These two are heavier, but absorb more water and stay wet longer:

http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3198&ParentCat=256

http://www.ruffwear.com/Swamp-Cooler-Dog-Cooling-Vest-Sun-Protection-Prevents-Canine-Heat-Exhaustion-from-Ruffwear 

  • Wet your dog down before they start working or exercising. I personally use one of these, which I bought at Home Depot for about $7.

    Be sure to use lukewarm water (not ice water) and spray the areas of your dog where the fur is thinnest, like tummy and inner thighs. Work the water in so it touches the skin (spraying the outer layer of coat won’t help.)

  • Take them swimming before you go!
  • Use a cool bed: http://thegreenpetshop.com/, or www.khmfg.com/cool-bed-iiitm.html (Actually, do they make these for humans?)
  • Know what you’re looking at. Signs of overheating include:
    • Profuse, shallow and rapid panting, with “spoon tongue” – where it gets all flat at the end
    • Bright red tongue (look at your dog’s tongue now, so you have a baseline)
    • Thick, drooling saliva
    • Disinterest in working, OR inability to learn well, even though they still want to “go”
    • Lack of coordination, or appearing “drunk”
    • At it’s worst: vomiting, diarrhea, coma and death. Let’s not get here, huh?
  • Remember that if your dog is already overheated, don’t douse them in ice water. Cooling them down too quickly can cause more damage. Just take them to the shade, and give them water to drink. Consider how you’re going to do things differently next time. If in doubt, call a vet.
  • Don’t be afraid so say “we’ll sit this one out.” You are the voice of your dog, since they can’t speak. Many high-drive dogs will choose to work and play even when they shouldn’t, which means that you, the human, have to know when to say “no.” While I’m not a fan of protecting dogs to the point where they aren’t challenged, there is no shame in advocating for your dog.   There will always be more fun later on!

Have an idea for a training Tidbit? Let me know! I’d love to hear from you!

 

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